May Wine Club: Road to Valencia

Food stalls aplenty in Valencia!

Welcome to May and our story about wines that are good for the planet—and the people who live here, too! We’re here to help you discover all the ways in which the wine industry is changing for the better—from grape to glass—and how you can be a part of it.

You knew we couldn’t wait too much longer to do a Spain-themed month. It’s just too cool of a winemaking place, and it’s beloved by the GoodWine team (me and my husband Evan!) and the UnWined team alike.

Spain is distinguished. It has the largest amount of land planted to grape vines in the world. The variety of different climates—everything from Atlantic-influenced wines in the north, to toasty and dry climates in the interior, to Mediterranean gems in the East and South, and to islands—make for many varied (and tasty!) expressions of wines. And if you’re a regular UnWined shopper, you’ll know that the Spain (and Portugal) sections are huge compared to the average shop, meaning you can always find something cutting-edge from the Iberian peninsula on offer.

Similar to our months on France and Portugal, we’ve picked Spain to continue our deep dive into how climate is super important to wine in our favorite wine-producing countries. Facing drought conditions and rising temps, Spanish growers and winemakers have had to adapt by relying on older vines that are thought to handle heat better; by planting at higher altitudes to find cooler temps or bigger swings in temperature from day to night (aka diurnal shifts); and by rescuing ancient, indigenous, and/or forgotten grape varieties (which feature prominently in all of our selections below!).

And as luck would have it, this summer my family and I are hopping on a plane to visit friends that moved from D.C. to Valencia last year. Kids’ temperaments permitting, we hope to get out to visit the first producer in this month’s lineup! Read on below for more details about that.

Do you have wines you’d like to see in the club? Want some help choosing between the Spanish wine selections in the shop? Wine recommendations you need on the fly? Shoot me a note! I’d be more than happy to chat. And for past months’ write-ups, just click here.

The Wines

Our first wine comes to us from Valencia, which is an appellation I was really excited to taste wine from given that it’s off-the-beaten-wine-path and because we’re headed there soon! It is a rosé sparkling wine made in the traditional method from Celler del Roure using the Mandó grape. Mandó is a grape that is indigenous to Valencia, and this is my first time giving it a try. Celler del Roure and winemaker Pablo farm organically and are certified by a local Valencian organic certification organization. The wine spends about three years on the lees, which makes it complex and creamy. Celler del Roure makes several other delicious-sounding wines, and I can’t wait to see what else they have on offer when we visit. Will report back!

Celler del Roure Les Danses Blanc de Mandó 2020

Next, we have a dreamy white wine from the Xarel-lo grape and from producer Can Sumoi. Can Sumoi hails from the Penedès region which is west of Barçelona in northeastern Spain. Penedès is where Cava is also made (from the Xarel-lo grape as well as others!). Our still Xarel-lo wine is savory and creamy with a long finish.

In terms of sustainability and climate-friendly work, Can Sumoi’s ethos falls squarely in the lane of what GoodWine is all about. Their stated mission is to recover abandoned vineyards, farm organically, think of the vineyards and surrounding land as resources that can contribute to the well-being of the community. We hope you enjoy this one!

Can Sumoi Penedès Xarel-lo 2023

Finally, we have a wine that is a little bit more of a “thinking wine,” but still super pleasurable. It’s the 2018 El Reflejo de Mikaela from the Ribera del Jucar D.O., which is in Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain. This wine is a red field blend comprised mostly of the Bobal grape (approximately 90%) and 10% other indigenous varieties including Pardilla, Malvasía, Moravia Agría, Moravia Dulce, and Rojal. Farmers and winemakers Micaela and Aurelio dry farm their grapes and farm organically, too.

This wine has a great tannic and rustic feel on the finish, which will make it very well-suited for grilled meats (or veggies!) to accompany the warmer weather that we’ve just started to enjoy. Let us know what you think. Cheers!

Micaela Rubio Castilla Bobal El Reflejo de Mikaela 2018